THE CLIMBING by Andy Beerman translator ondyno
Young people... I'm sorry, oh! We are veterans! Rock climbers are used to watching teenagers jump up and down while bouldering, laughing at their recklessness and lack of experience. Indeed, our idea is that these "snapping monkey-like actions" may have extraordinary effects on a certain movement, but real climbing requires a better demeanor.
Now these illusions - when Chris Sharma and the "children's legion" headed by him are a breeze, the chaos and convulsions of the United States have conquered America's most difficult sport climbing route and treated it as a chaotic indoor field - ruthlessly Crushed.
The secret of their success is not only the power of the apes, but also the way they use their power - using dynamic movement and momentum to surge into the rock wall. Do you want to add some "sexy" to your climbing? Here are some tips from the zoo.
1. Dynamic climbing.
You know that there are some difficulties on one line that can be passed using more efficient dyno or deadpoint. Dynamic movement forces are generated in the legs and buttocks, and locking and static shots are clearly arm strength. Why is it necessary to waste critical upper body strength to make a static move and when you know that the next one is a good one? Simply jump it. Exercise dynamics make you more comfortable at redpoint
2. Minimize the use of your feet and kick your feet at a decisive moment. When climbing, try to reduce the number of feet. Picking a good foot can move your hand several steps at once. When you want to step on the high foot or with the hook, try to jump to your feet. In the same way, sometimes the feet are relaxed on the cliff and the swinging kinetic energy is used to control, rather than using waist and belly strength. Frequently, when passing difficult points, including transitioning from a good hand to a difficult hand, it is best to remove your foot from a well-trodden point before stepping on a difficult foot. The first step is more laborious, but it is faster and easier. Otherwise you will have to hang your hands on hard-to-find points to move your feet.
3. One foot is better than two feet
Chris Sharma’s climbing shows that his signature “tripod†style features important features on one foot (usually on the outside) and two feet. His other foot swings like a rudder, helping Chris generate tremendous upward momentum, and his body rotates around an axis (foot point) rather than statically balancing with two feet. The "tripod" technique is also suitable for those who lack flexibility on the hips. When you are climbing, your feet are smooth or sloping, and the combination of pressure and friction determines how your feet step. Don't blame the rubber on your rock shoes, maybe it's just that you're not stepping on strength. Put the weight of your body on one foot, increase the pressure on this foot, and then use your other foot to balance. Finally, letting one foot swing helps you get a lower center of gravity so you can stretch your arms to save energy.
4. Roar!
It has been said that proper cries can increase your power by 20%. I don't know if this is true or not, but it seems to be very effective in hard work. If you are shy, you can start yelling and slowly shout. In the most extreme moves, I have found that noise such as aaaahhhh!" and "daaaattt!" is most effective
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