Exploring the French Riviera: From Villefranche-sur-Mer to Cap d’Ail
For those who have been following along, you’ll know that I absolutely adore walking, and this particular route ranks among the most spectacular and unforgettable walks I’ve ever taken in France.
I woke up early one morning in Villefranche-sur-Mer, pondering whether it would be feasible to walk all the way to Eze (the coastal area, not the hilltop village). Deciding to give it a shot, I set off with the intention of reaching Eze for a coffee break before catching the bus back home.
To my pleasant surprise, it was not only possible but surprisingly quick, so I kept going, transforming what began as a simple stroll into a 5-hour journey that brought me right to the border of Monaco.
I started my trek in the familiar way, heading over to Beaulieu-sur-Mer via the charming streets of old Villefranche-sur-Mer and the vibrant Plage des Marinières.
Passing through Plage des Fourmis, the bustling marina, and finally arriving at Plage Petite Afrique in Beaulieu.
By this point, walking directly by the water was no longer possible, so I ascended to the Basse Corniche—the lowest of the three cliff roads that trace the stunning coastline from Nice to Menton.
The elevation of the Basse Corniche varies significantly; sometimes it hugs the shoreline, offering an intimate connection to the sea, while in other sections, it provides a panoramic bird’s-eye view of the Mediterranean. The vividness of the water is simply breathtaking.
Did you catch “The Persuaders†back in the 70s or 80s? (I was a huge fan!) If you did, you might recognize this section of the Basse Corniche as the road where Tony Curtis and Roger Moore raced their cars in the opening episode. It also appeared in the show’s credits in subsequent episodes. Here’s a screenshot from the first episode.
After a series of twists and turns, I finally spotted the Eze-Bord-de-Mer sign.
I wandered down into the heart of the town, capturing images of anything that caught my eye along the way.
It was still early, and I was pleasantly surprised by how smooth the walk had been. After strolling through the town and passing the train station, I decided to continue onward.
I had noticed a small island from the bus ride to Menton a few days prior and hoped I could capture a decent shot of it from the road. The sidewalk became narrower and narrower until it vanished altogether, but my determination to get that shot led me to walk directly in the street—along concrete barriers with the train tracks behind them and cars whizzing by dangerously close.
Though not the best shot, I did manage to capture a somewhat blurry image of the island, which I later learned is privately owned and named L'ÃŽle d'Isoletta, part of the Villa Isoletta once belonging to Alva Vanderbilt Belmont.
Eventually, the sidewalk reappeared, and the road began ascending slightly, offering stunning views back along the coastline.
It was a tranquil stretch of road, seemingly a lesser-known detour from the Basse Corniche (I later discovered it was Avenue Raymond Poincaré). At the time, I wasn’t entirely sure where I was, but rounding a corner revealed these exquisite iron gates.
I snapped a few photos and continued walking. Turning back, I spotted a building with a swimming pool nestled in a serene and secluded setting below. It turned out to be the renowned Hotel Cap-Estel, and those iron gates marked its entrance—a place steeped in celebrity history and intrigue.
From various sources: “Cap Estel was originally a pastureland transformed into a luxurious vacation home by Irish author and journalist Frank Harris, a friend of Oscar Wilde, for wealthy clients. Later, facing bankruptcy, Harris sold the property at auction to Countess Mery de la Canorgue, who renamed it ‘Roc Saphir’ and added a garden. It was then owned by Rose Angeline Levieuze, the French mistress of Count Sergei, one of the last Stroganovs, whom she married later. In 1923, it passed to André Embiricos, an heir to an old family of Greek shipbuilders and an automobile pilot. In 1951, the property was transformed into a magical retreat for millionaires by Robert Squarciafichi.†⠀
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The celebs: “The Beatles stayed here multiple times. Paul McCartney composed the song ‘Michelle’ poolside with his guitar. John Lennon and Yoko Ono honeymooned here after their marriage in Gibraltar. Jimmy Page frequently visited in the 70s and 80s. Bono from U2 has spent many vacations here. Princess Grace used to use the hotel as an overflow residence when the palace in Monaco was full and would occasionally come for meals. David Niven, Anthony Quinn, Greta Garbo, Humphrey Bogart, and Lawrence Olivier were regular guests in the 1950s. Dean Martin filmed the spy spoof ‘Murderer’s Row’ here.â€
I pressed onward, and soon the side street rejoined the Basse Corniche, leading me further toward Monaco. The road climbed steadily, revealing picturesque scenes on the left and panoramic Mediterranean vistas on the right.
The colors of the water grew more and more enchanting with every step.
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