Outdoor Classroom: Causes and Treatments of Hand Fatigue in Rock Climbing

It is easy to cause local fatigue of the limb during climbing exercise, especially in the hand. How to quickly recover the fatigue of the athlete's hand is an urgent problem to be solved. This article summarizes the causes and treatment methods of hand fatigue in rock climbing for reference by rock climbers.

the reason

1 Characteristics of Projects for Climbing Rock Climbing can be divided into speed rock climbing, difficulty rock climbing and climbing stone according to the nature of the competition. According to the sports venues, it is divided into artificial ground rock climbing and natural site rock climbing. But no matter what kind of rock climbing, athletes' physical requirements are very high, especially the strength. As far as the technology itself is concerned, climbing projects require climbers to climb upwards on pre-designed routes. During the climbing process, the completion of each movement must rely on the force of muscle contraction to overcome its own gravity and External resistance and centrifugal force.

For the climber, he uses the “three-point fixing method” of hands and feet as the basic climbing tactics, using the pull, buckle, support, gripping, pinching, pushing and other actions of the upper and lower limbs, and the synthesis of other parts of the body. Power to complete. In general, during the entire climb, the climber spends most of his time pulling, grasping, deducting, pinching, hanging, and supporting his fingers to support the entire body weight. The load on the hand is far greater than other parts. At the same time, the hand muscles are small, the area is small, and the capillary blood vessels are not rich in distribution. Therefore, the special strength of the hand requires high quality, and the muscles and joints of the hand are also more It is prone to exercise fatigue. Fatigue symptoms can be seen in the hand muscles, tendon Swelling tight, according to the pain, joint stiffness, smaller activity, long-term climbing can cause fingertip hypertrophy.

2. The characteristics of energy supply for rock climbing The speed of climbing requires athletes to complete the required two routes in the shortest time. A line of men athletes generally takes only ten seconds; women need only twenty seconds to complete, so athletes in the game The energy comes mainly from the phospho-gen system. Rock climbing athletes need to exert force quickly during the climbing process, and the required exercise intensity is relatively large. The content of ATP and CP in muscles will rapidly drop, resulting in fatigue at the site of use.

Difficult climbing is the protection of the tether under the athlete, with a rope to climb upwards, and in accordance with the rules of the game, the middle protection padlock will be put in order. The final height of the climb will determine the position of the athlete in each round. It takes a long time to play, so the athlete's endurance requirements are relatively high. The muscles of the hands often work in the absence of oxygen. The longer the duration of work, the more lactic acid will be produced, and the more fatigue the part will become.

Governing Law

1 massage massage can effectively relieve muscle tension and spasm, because massage can make muscle fiber passive activity, so that the muscles pulled to relax, eliminate fatigue, due to muscle capillary expansion and blood circulation caused by the opening of the capillaries to speed up, so that muscle The required oxygen and nutrients are supplemented in a timely manner to increase the activity of nerves, muscles, and organs, and can promote the absorption and excretion of metabolites such as lactic acid, thereby improving the work efficiency and eliminating fatigue. Hand massage is usually performed after training or training, and the time is generally not more than 10 to 20 minutes. The treatment is mainly based on blood circulation, Shujin meridians. Because the hand muscles are less, it is not appropriate to use such techniques as taking and rolling. Generally, rubbing, wiping, kneading, lifting, squeezing, stretching, and other types of friction and sports joints should be used. Sun Hezheng. Through experiments on local muscles of rats, it was found that the kneading method has a significant effect on delaying fatigue, prolonging working hours, and accelerating the recovery of exercise fatigue.

2 External use of traditional Chinese medicines for topical use of traditional Chinese medicine can be used in Chinese medicine soaking and direct external application of traditional Chinese medicine methods. Chinese medicine soaked in blisters can stimulate blood vessels to expand and reduce peripheral resistance, improve blood flow and flow rate, promote blood circulation and lymphatic circulation of the hand through thermal stimulation of water; at the same time, hand pores expand and absorb active ingredients of traditional Chinese medicine to accelerate sweat glands, sebaceous glands, etc. The excretion function is strengthened, and harmful substances (such as urea nitrogen) and fatigue-producing substances (such as lactic acid) are quickly eliminated from the body. Soaking of traditional Chinese medicine is generally adopted before the break in the evening. The soaking time is generally between 20 and 30 minutes, and the soaking temperature is always maintained at about 50 cC, so as to achieve a better result. In this aspect of research, Zhao Xin et al. used traditional Chinese medicine bubble immersion fluid to treat patients with swelling of the hand, and found that the Chinese medicine bubble immersion group improved in terms of swelling and joint activity, and also reduced pain. Clearly better than the placebo group. External application of traditional Chinese medicine can make the drug penetrate directly into the deep part of fatigue and pain through the skin of the hand, and has a significant effect on relieving local muscle fiber spasm, muscle microcirculation, and reducing the degree of muscle stiffness and soreness. External application is generally used to make traditional Chinese medicines ready for use. When the medicine is put on the paper, the area of ​​the powdered powder is about 0.5 cm thick according to the size of the hand, and it is applied locally after heating. External use of traditional Chinese medicine, ephedra, cassia, wind, nourishment, white peony and other radiating cold medicine; safflower, Chuanxiong, Motherwort, Panax notoginseng, turmeric and other blood circulation drugs. In addition, according to the symptoms can add some blood drugs, such as Astragalus, Codonopsis, Angelica, Rehmannia and so on. The use of drugs varies according to the degree of fatigue and the age of the athlete.

3Physiotherapy of physiotherapy equipment is a treatment method that uses various physical factors to stimulate the body through the instrument and causes various reactions of the body to regulate, promote, maintain or restore various physiological functions, restrain the cause of the disease, and thus achieve therapeutic goals. . Commonly used treatments include electromagnetic waves, ultrashort waves, infrared rays, and warm low-frequency waves. By using these physical energy (heat, electricity, magnetism, light, sound, etc.) to act on the part of the body, it can play the role of analgesic swelling, improvement of local blood circulation, and regulation of neuromuscular tension, and accelerate the recovery of hand fatigue. There is a certain effect. Some scholars have found in the study of treatment of muscle adhesion, warm type low frequency has a good effect, because the low frequency of the micro-vibration is a suitable stimulus, so that the conduction of pain may be inhibited or interrupted, and thus have good The analgesic effect; Pulse modulation current can promote peripheral blood circulation, eliminate edema, promote inflammation absorption, relieve muscle spasm and relieve and eliminate pain; In addition, low-frequency waves also have the function of warm heat conduction, local vasodilation during treatment, cell permeability Enhanced, conducive to absorption of inflammation, increase metabolism, anti-inflammatory analgesic effect.

4 Acupuncture Acupuncture is a method that uses different needles to act on certain points in the body, and uses various methods to stimulate circulation, thereby adjusting body functions to prevent diseases. The use of acupuncture to stimulate the hand can dredge the meridians, correcting the evils, increasing the body temperature of the hands, and accelerating the blood flow, thereby accelerating the metabolism of lactic acid. The fatigue of the hand can also be seen to reduce the muscle strength. Using a needle to puncture the hand muscles can effectively restore the muscle strength. The mechanism may be that the acupuncture strengthens the function of the nerve media release system, so that the body excitability is improved and the human body is normal. Changes in state to stress state, various reserves in the human body will be mobilized, the content of red blood cells and hemoglobin will increase, the synthesis of muscle glycogen will be accelerated, and the activities of various enzymes required for gluconeogenesis will increase. These changes will make muscles The force returned to a higher level. For acupuncture points, Shao, Shangyang, Zhongchong, Guanchong, Shaochong, Shaoze, Hegu, Hand Sanli, Quchi, Zusanli, Waiguan and Ashi points were used. Generally use the needle to fill or reduce diarrhea or strong tactics. Niu Dong used the needles to rapidly pierce the skin of the experimental group of the overload exercise, and then inserted people into the nerve running area to do a large scale thrusting, and each time the plug was inserted, the needle tip was to be changed slightly under the skin until When the stricken person has a strong touch inductance or soreness sensation and radiates to the distal end of the limb, it is found that this method can accelerate the rate of blood lactate removal.

5 Nutritional climbing project The opponent's strength and quality requirements are relatively high. Therefore, there should be abundant protein in the usual diet to promote the recovery of exercise fatigue. The supply of protein should reach 2g/kg body weight, in which high-quality protein accounts for 1/3, but the protein intake can not be too much, so as not to cause body fluid acid-base balance disorders, calcium loss and liver and kidney burden. Foods should be rich in potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium and other electrolytes. In addition, rock climbers should also pay attention to the intake of vitamin B and citric acid, because both can remove excess lactic acid produced locally on the limbs. Zhang Li found that citric acid-containing mulberry vinegar can effectively reduce lactic acid in mice and achieve anti-fatigue effects.

summary

Rock climbing is a type of project where the requirements of the opponent's power quality are relatively high. The hand is also the most likely to produce exercise fatigue. It is also very important for rock climbing athletes to recover from fatigue, through massage, external use of traditional Chinese medicine, instrument therapy, acupuncture, nutrition In order to achieve better results, different methods may be used to solve the problem of hand fatigue in combination with several methods to provide useful help for rock climbers to restore their athletic ability and improve their performance. However, research on the recovery of hand fatigue for rock climbers is still rare and needs to be strengthened.

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